Why Asian Skincare is trending in the US
Illustration by Elizabeth Zu
In late 2018, Sephora launched its first K-Beauty collaboration with Memebox, introducing the Western beauty world into Asian beauty. And just this September, the Korean brand Innisfree had its exclusive launch at Sephora. This marked another major milestone for the growth of Asian beauty in the West.
Brands like Shiseido and SK-II have been carried by department stores for years, but the past few years have seen Asian beauty products—especially Asian skincare—skyrocket to prominence, establishing its place in the mainstream consumer culture. This sudden surge in popularity of Asian skincare is due in part to broader trends within the Western beauty industry, but also reflects Western consumers’ growing interest in the unique aspects of Asian beauty, such as their famously intense skincare regimens and emphasis on natural ingredients.
Skincare is on the rise as a major focus in the Western beauty industry. Trends like “no-makeup” makeup or glass skin are examples of how consumers are embracing natural, minimal beauty, in which skin is a feature to be shown off rather than covered up. One U.S. brand that embodies this trend is Glossier, which has been one of the pioneers of the no-makeup makeup look. Ads on the Glossier website feature a diverse array of youthful models, close-up shots of their natural, unblemished, glowy skin, and minimal, if not unnoticeable, make-up.
Glossier photoshoots enhancing the model’s flawless skin with minimal makeup.
Meanwhile, the popular Western conception of Asian beauty has long been youthful, flawless skin. This is actually not too far off the mark, especially if you take a look at Asian ads themselves. Asian beauty standards heavily emphasize perfect, pale skin. Asians take care to protect themselves from the sun and skincare products are as important as makeup, if not more so. Thus this idea that Asians have soft, youthful, and flawless skin has propelled many Western consumers to go in search of the “Asian way” of skincare.
“...consumers are embracing natural, minimal beauty”
At the same time that interest in skincare has surged, there has also been a growing demand for natural products. A study conducted by L’Oreal on the future of skincare found that 95% of women want skincare products to protect their skin as opposed to producing cosmetic effects. Not only this, but 65% of women globally are using more natural and minimal formulations as opposed to scientifically advanced formulas. These insights reveal that beauty consumers are seeking natural, gentle formulas that build up the skin’s tolerance to the external environment.
Illustration by Elizabeth Zu
Here too, Asian skincare holds a unique appeal. With its roots in traditional medicine, Asian skincare often touts its use of natural extracts like snail mucin. Though these claims may not be scientifically proven, natural extracts are promoted as being able to increase skin resilience while fading dark spots and fine lines. Scientifically tested products sometimes seem harsh or “have too many artificial chemicals,” both of which clash with consumers’ preference for natural products. Additionally, Asian skincare famously involves an extensive ritual with many steps and products that is akin to a “self-pampering” experience for practitioners. While the idea of a “12-step routine” can be intimidating to some, this aspect makes Asian skincare more appealing for consumers who are seeking to take more serious steps to improve their skin health or overall skin conditions. The targeted, personalized style of an Asian skincare routine that mixes and matches products for specific purposes would certainly appeal to them.
Lastly, the growing popularity of Asian beauty and skincare have resulted in greater representation of Asian beauty culture, products, and icons in the West.
Recent years have seen numerous established, western retailers begin to include Asian beauty brands. Sephora currently carries a selection of products from Laneige and Etude House, both of which are very popular brands in Asia. Even Walmart and Target now carry a variety of Asian skincare and makeup brands. Asian beauty, with its unique concepts and products, is becoming more mainstream in the west.
But it is not just about Asian beauty brands. Asian beauty influencers are also gaining recognition in the West. Pony Park, who is one of the most popular makeup artists in Asia with more than 5 million followers on Youtube, recently collaborated with the major U.S. makeup brand MAC on a collection of Tarot-card themed makeup. High-end Western brands have long looked to Asian celebrities to market their products there. But now many of these celebrities are also receiving recognition outside of their home countries. Vogue released a video featuring K-pop idol Tiffany Young earlier this year, and it has already racked up 5.6 million views.
An ad for the MAC x Pony Park Collaboration.
At the same time, Western brands are also trying to catch onto new product trends from Asia. Apart from expanding more seriously into skincare, Western beauty brands are taking a cue from their Asian counterparts and emphasizing natural extracts in their formulations. Rice, green tea, and many other traditional Asian skincare ingredients are now featured in many Western brands’ product lines. Asia’s influential emphasis on natural ingredients has also set a standard for Western skincare companies to hold their ingredients to stricter standards, develop more sophisticated formulas, and present their products in appealing packages. Most importantly, Asian skincare culture has provided the U.S. population facing an increase in allergic reactions and sensitive skin with a positive trend that calls for healthy, resilient skin.
However, some aspects of Asian beauty’s growth in the West are more controversial. Some Western forays into the Asian skincare trend have been met with accusations of cultural appropriation. Tatcha, a U.S. luxury skincare brand inspired by Japanese beauty principles, features aspects of Japanese culture all throughout its products and packaging. This has been a point of controversy, considering that its Asian-American founder Vicky Tsai has no Japanese background. Additionally, Asian beauty culture itself has received both internal and external criticism. The Asian preference for pale skin is seen by some to be colorism, which is discrimination based on the color of the skin.
Even with these bumps in the road, the rise of Asian beauty and skincare in the West has been undeniable. Western consumers have available to them a wider selection of product options, and are more aware of the beauty and health benefits that come from taking care of one’s skin. Asian beauty brands have inspired innovation and growth within the Western beauty industry while themselves benefiting from expanded access to a large, new market. As a whole, Asian beauty has achieved greater recognition and representation worldwide, diversifying mainstream conceptions of beauty here in the West.
This article was written in collaboration with Sophie Yeh and Tina Zhang from VIVID Magazine, another CMU student-run publication.